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Covering undercambered wings
 Moderated by: Spe, Phil Fearn, colin, admin, AdeH  
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PaulE
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 Posted: 12 March 2010 03:47 pm
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The title says it all, I think.

The way I thought of tackling it was to use sanding sealer on the wing ribs and then add a coat of Prymol.

Obviously what I don't want to happen is for the covering to "ping" off the ribs when shrinking.
Any advice welcome.



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NevLegg
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 Posted: 12 March 2010 05:06 pm
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What are you covering the wing with?



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PaulE
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 Posted: 12 March 2010 05:28 pm
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Sorry, should have said that.
Solatex.



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NevLegg
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 Posted: 13 March 2010 10:20 am
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I've only ever covered undercambered wings with tissue or silk, using dope as adhesive, never had any problems. Using solartex I would just use dope or prymol not both! and if you've sanded the ribs or cap strips make sure they're dust free! You should be ok just ironing the covering to the ribs, with a small iron, so as not to shrink the surrounding covering, then use an iron set fairly low to shrink between the ribs only, work the temp. up slowly, and try not to touch the ribs! I wouldn't use a heat gun, as you won't have the same control!
I covered the fuz of a Hawker Hurricane with solartex, and as you know, it has concave and convex sections behind the cockpit, it seemed to stick to the stringers with no problems when shrunk.

Cheers

Last edited on 13 March 2010 10:28 am by NevLegg



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PaulE
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 Posted: 13 March 2010 03:34 pm
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Thanks, Nev.



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Phil Fearn
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 Posted: 13 March 2010 04:55 pm
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Hi Paul .I dont think Prymol will work on wood very well. You would be better off using "Clearcoat" Allow it to dry thoroughly overnight then give it another thinned coat about half  an hour before covering . Once ironed on you will only remove it with direct heat from a covering iron .  And as Neville said shrink carfully .Good luck

Phil

PS dont bother with "Balsaloc" its pretty useless IMO

 



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PaulE
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 Posted: 13 March 2010 05:11 pm
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Thanks, Phil.
Clearcoat it is then.
I agree, balsaloc don't seem so good - I used it to fix the litespan on the pup and might as well have used flour and water:(



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NevLegg
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 Posted: 14 March 2010 08:33 am
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PVA thinned with water works well as an adhesive for coverings like Litespan.
Brush on a coat and let it dry, and iron on your covering. The PVA polymerises with the heat and sticks the covering to the wood, you can use it as a contact adhesive with wood to wood! There was an article many years ago in a radio modeller mag. that showed how to apply L/e sheeting using this method. Just coat the ribs in un-thinned PVA, and the sheet where it touches the ribs, let it dry, and then iron down the sheet!



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Phil Fearn
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 Posted: 14 March 2010 10:23 am
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Thats a really good tip Nev . Why dont you do a compilationofbuilding tips especially applying doped finishes . It may help keep the art alive .

Phil



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Take offs are optional ,landings arn't
The "Secret of Flight" is to aim at the ground and miss !
NevLegg
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 Posted: 14 March 2010 01:33 pm
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Phil, most of this stuff comes from very old mag articles, or things other modellers have passed on to me! Strange how I can remember these things from 30-40 years ago, but struggle to remember my name somedays:? Ho-Hum:D



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martinw
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 Posted: 15 March 2010 11:26 am
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I found a similar article when I was surfing some while back. It was full of great ideas particularly regarding PVA.

Trouble is I had it in my favorites and they all disappeared the other day for some reason (probably pilot error) :(


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